Showing posts with label seasonal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label seasonal. Show all posts

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Sluggish September


After abandoning my child, La Poularde, one might wonder if I have any respect for the few and varied readers that might skim the blog. While I was entertaining myself with various summer activities, traveling from point A to B and then C-Z, other folks, such as yourselves, were most likely doing equally - if not more - enjoyable activities. With that, I base my "excuse."

However, there should be no excuse for abandoning my post and failing to feed the needy whilst opting to feed myself instead. Instead of gluttony and hedonism, I should have thought of "others." Please excuse this absurd shortcoming on my behalf. Shameful, really.

Instead of typing more poppycock and fluffing myself, I will get straight to the important information. Beer was consumed (as expected), a few multi-course, multi-hundred dollar meals were relished and a cake or two, as well as a handful of desserts, were sampled.

Some of my notes will explain the beer consumption:

20 July 08
Beer: Augustiner Bräu München, Edelstoff
Location: Whole Foods Bowery, NYC
Price: $2/12oz. Bottle
Grade: 7.6

Fantastic carbonation, German taste and overall mouthfeel. Slight yeast, lots of wheaty-hopped taste, a bit a straw-like taste – grassy you could say, but not very bitter. Very clean tasting, dry finish, crisp and light. But not light to the point where it is watery – it still has enough flavor to it. A beer that would be ideal for some bratwurst and other sausages; this beer is wonderful. Not so much malty as it is wheaty-hoppy mixed with barley. Its color is a very pale golden, almost to the point of a white-gold near the bottom. Rather refreshing and thirst quenching, I will admit. Carbonation dies down after a while, yet it still has life to it. Basically, a not so bad German lager.

21 July 08
Beer: Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier – Urbock, Brauerei Heller Bamberg
Location: Whole Foods Bowery, NYC
Price: $4.99/Bottle
Grade: 8.2

Like a beautifully roasted, suckling pig. Meat in a bottle. Rare steak liquified. Smokey, Texan barbeque in the form of a non-solid. Rauchbier at its finest. A slightly sweetened smokiness with medium body. Seriously like drinking a BBQ rib or smoked pork. Not so much the most complex beer following the intial smokiness, but still so enjoyable. If you are any sort of meat lover or a man of the grill, this is basically your beer. The thing is, it’s not so overpowering that you despise the smokiness. It’s well done, with a kiss of smoke and a pretty crisp feel in the mouth. Doesn’t linger too long or stick around. It’s a nice touch of smoke and that’s it.

24 July 08
Beer: G. Schneider & Sohn – Aventinus Wheat-Doppelbock
Location: Whole Foods Bowery, NYC
Price: $3.99/500mL
Grade: 7.6

Really good, spicy dark wheat-doppelbock. Apple, cinnamon, nutmeg and dark cane sugar. Dark cherry peel, dark malts with a dark honey kiss. Did I say dark? Toasty-bread like taste, rather peppery and with a somewhat banana taste? But a very caramelized, spicy banana. Cloves and pear, somewhat chewy, medium body and subtle complexities. A good beer, even great beer – but not a “Oh shit this is amazing” beer. Very substantial though.

25 July 08
Beer: G. Schneider & Sohn – Schneider Weisse, Hefe-Weizen
Location: Whole Foods Bowery, NYC
Price: $3.99/500mL
Grade: 6.8

I will admit, quite a damn letdown. Was expecting a really wonderful hefe-weizen but what you get is a very short-lived, teasing and boring ass beer. The only thing it has going for it is a very natural, wheaty taste with very, very subtle yeasts. However the bite is so short, so quick and so hasty that you don’t even get to savor the taste – if there is any. The color is lightly burnt orange, almost like the color of an apricot. Body is rather light-medium with a fizzy tingle on the tongue, like a well carbonated tonic water. However the finish is very weak and rather watery. The malts are very airy and seem to be hit or miss. Overall, the beer is just… sad. I was expecting so much but only got so little. I suppose this might be good to help wash down a meal, but it surely does not stand out.

27 July 08
Beer: Samuel Smith Taddy Porter
Location: Whole Foods Bowery, NYC
Price: $3.99/500mL
Grade: 7.8

A slightly sweet, slightly fruity, usual roasted malts/molasses taste but not deathly dark or heavy. Sort of like an oak bark touch to it though, mixed with blackberries, plum and raisin. A rather dark barley taste to it with minimal hops and bitterness, even a dusting of cocoa powder to it. Dark ruby red at bottom, a brown-black for the rest. Tan head of about 1”, nothing too amazing. A fine beer for taking in gulps, but it’s not like one that will woo and pillow you to rest on the bar counter. Rather, this would be a fine accompaniment to roasted meats like boar or bison. A lighter porter than I’ve had in comparison to others, but nonetheless a fine drink. Nothing more, nothing less. Highly drinkable porter that is well worth the cost – plus it has a lovely looking label.

28 July 08
Beer: Sierra Nevada Porter
Location: Corner Deli, 7th Ave @ W 18th St
Price: $11/6pk
Grade: 6.9

Chocolate, light molasses, an alright attempt at a Porter. Nothing crazy though.

30 July 08
Beer: G. Schneider & Sohn, Schneider Weisse & Brooklyner, Hopfen Weisse
Location: Whole Foods Bowery, NYC
Price: $4.99/500mL
Grade: 7.8

Lovely spritzy, medium body with floral hops and a crispy, citrusy bite. Really precise and well put together. Packs a dashingly good punch and slightly spiced hops. Touches of honey, wheaty-ness, peach, and cardamom. Really enjoyable drink that’s refreshing with a great mouth feel. Good drink and good times.

2 August 08
Beer: Trappistes Rochefort 10
Location: New Beer Distributors, Chrystie St, NYC
Prie: $6.75/330mL
Grade: 9.6

Holy mother of God. Without a doubt, the finest beer I have ever had. Chocolates, smooth, drawn out molassey malts, plums, dark cherries at prime ripeness, hints of speckled spices, an effervescence so fine only the god could produce such a soothing tingle. Has a mouthfeel like no other, crisp on the outside yet mellow within the middle. A rich, rich murky brown – like a dark wood or rosewood color. Darkened, tan 2” head with darker speckles of browned yeasts. A good, bready alcohol taste with some berries coming though also. The aroma alone is wonderful – there really is so much going on within each bite of this beer. It’s body it beautiful – a heavy/medium with just enough flavor throughout. But what’s so good is that no specific flavor is overpowering through, each had a hint of its own. Grapes and fig, apples and surely enough alcohol to take you out at 11.3% ABV. Definitely takes the ‘stamina’ out of you though, as you finish through with the bottle. In a short time, the affects of the quadruple become rather apparent and you realize that you might not be able to drink another. Or rather, afford another. Nonetheless, a top-class brew.

8 August 08
Beer: Achel Trappist
Location: New Beer Distributors, Chrystie St, NYC
Price: $15/750mL
Grade: 9.0

Not bad, notable “trappiste” taste at end, high alcohol content. Not a overly, overly knockout though surprisingly enough. Will need to try again soon. A milder beer, honey touches and some spices.

9 August 08
Beer: Abbey, New Beglium Brewing Co.
Location: New Belgium Brewery, Fort Collins, CO
Price: Gratis, via Hoffman Inc. Importers
Grade: 7.1

Nice, earnest try at Belgian abbey/trappist-style ale.

10 August 08
Beer: Mothership Wit, New Belgium Brewing Co.
Location: New Beglium Brewery, Fort Collins, CO
Price: Gratis, via Hoffman Inc. Importers
Grade: 6.8

Swell wheat beer. But not a knockout hefeweizen that reall stood out from any other. The usual orange, coriander, wheaty notes and citrusy taste. Not too bad.

11 August 08
Beer: 1554, New Beglium Brewing Co.
Location New Beglium Brewery, Fort Collins, CO
Price: Gratis, via Hoffman Inc. Importers
Grade: 7.3

Chocolate, roasted, toffee, dark fruits and slight syrupy taste to it. Could have much more to it though – definitely in body and mouthfeel. Nice flavors but somewhat weak finish with many bites.

13 August 08
Beer: Loose Lips, New Belgium Brewing Co. via Growler/Draught
Location: New Belgium Brewery, Fort Collins, CO
Price: Gratis, via Hoffman Inc. Importers
Grade: 8.3

Niiiiice. Root beer notes, root-y, a dark, spiced sweetness, dark molasses. Smooth malts, very slick - a sweet, smoky nose (lovely), grilled pork taste, meaty.

15 August 08
Beer: IPA, Odell Brewing Co.
Location: Odell Brewery, Fort Collins, CO
Price: Gratis, via Hoffman Inc. Importers
Grade: 7.4

Mealy, grainy, kind of a fine artisinal feel, good hops and bitters yet not annoying. A real American, robust taste that isn’t a prickly, hoppy fellow that just goes for that. Deep, burnt orange with a 1” head. Medium body with fine mouth feel and good notes of apricot and even mango. Has a nose reminescent of freshly sqeezed oranges, very fresh in general. Crisp and clean with good finish.

16 August 08
Beer: Cutthroat Porter, Odell Brewing Co.
Location: Odell Brewery, Fort Collins, CO
Price: Gratis, via Hoffman Inc. Importers
Grade: 7.6

Dark, rich, satisfying. A good porter but I’m still in search of the one that just fills your entire mouth with goodness, warmth and thick heftiness.

18 August 08
Beer: IPA Draught, New Belgium
Location: New Belgium Brewing Co., Fort Collins, CO
Price: Gratis, via Hoffman Inc. Importers
Grade: 7.4

Excellent IPA, truly delightful with pig shank also.

22 August 08
Beer: Red Hook ESB
Location: Whole Foods Lamar, Austin, TX
Grade: 7.2

22 August 08
Beer: Real Ale Fireman’s 4
Location: Spider House, Austin, TX
Grade: 6.6

23 August 08
Beer: Spaten Premium
Location: Sam’s 249, Houston, TX
Grade: 6.8

26 August 08
Beer: Black Sheep Ale
Location: Spec’s 249, Cypress, TX
Grade: 7.6

26 August 08
Beer: Shiner Helles Lager
Location: Spec’s 249, Cypress, TX
Grade: 6.4

27 August 08
Beer: Breckenridge Agave Wheat
Location: Spec’s 249, Cypress, TX
Grade: 6.4

27 August 08
Beer: St. Grand Reserve
Location: Spec’s 249, Cypress, TX
Grade: 7.3

11 September 08
Beer: Brooklyn Pumpkin Road
Location: Whole Foods Bowery, NYC
Grade: 6.9

11 September 08
Beer: Red Seal Ale
Location: Whole Foods Bowery, NYC
Grade: 7.3

11 September 08
Beer: Paulaner Oktoberfestbier Amber
Location: Whole Foods Bowery, NYC
Grade: 6.9

12 September 08
Beer: Sam Adams
Location: Zip’s Ave C, NYC
Price: Gratis, via Chia Importers
Grade: 5.7

18 September 08
Beer: Bass
Location: Sunburnt Cow, Ave C/E. 6th St
Price: $6/pint
Grade: 6.3

If I still managed to keep you around: Good. If not, it doesn't really matter. You won't be reading this anyways.

Besides beer consumption, with the changing of the seasons comes the welcoming of new produce, restaurants and seasonal menus. I could pretend that I stalk the farmer's markets of New York, but that would be an absurd lie that I refuse to partake in. Instead, I will share the information that is readily stored within my feeble mind.

Fruits to consume:
1. Cranberries
2. Cherries
3. Juniper Berries
4. Apples (G. Smith)
5. Figs

Meats to eat:
1. Lamb (Rack)
2. Beef (Hangar)
3. Veal (Cutlets)
4. Chicken (Thighs)
5. Pork (Artisanal Bacon)

Vegetables that are edible:
1. Mushrooms (Porcini)
2. Bok Choy
3. Fingerling Potatoes
4. Pumpkin
5. Parsnips

Why I recommend the consumption of these 15 items? No particular reason. But it will add some complexity to your palate.

Lastly, I contemplated writing a review of my meal at Mas (Farmhouse), but I decided that would be a lot of work. Plus, a 6-course Chef's Tasting Menu that changes daily doesn't really merit a reason to review. However, I will recommend the fine establishment. Quite creative, prompt and enjoyable. Just be prepared to give away a good bit of your child/future child's college savings fund.

But if you're thinking positive - or desire to use comparative analysis - why would it even matter? The financial crisis is already ruining your life, why not enjoy a last meal or two? (Or 6, if you'd like to consider each new course a meal - it helps with the justification process.)

Thursday, December 6, 2007

Fruitcake: The Food that Defies Time, Logic and Taste Buds


In a city where restaurants come and go – where good chefs fail as dismal ones prevail - its intriguing to compare this capricious flow to the traditions of Christmas. Quite the odd juxtaposition I’ll admit, but why is that we’re all so fickle towards restaurants while the existence of traditions like fruitcake prevail? Do we really have our priorities set straight?

The holiday season is filled with tradition and obligatory foods galore. Imagine Hanukkah without latkes - or Christmas Eve without Santa’s milk and cookies. What would the season be like without the imperative eggnog? Isn’t that what this season is all about, giving gifts and giving in to sweets, fats, extra pounds and presents?

Fruitcake for one, tops the list of them all. Just the other day, all I had to do was utter the word and I was blessed with quite the lovely response. “Ah, the piece of shit with green cherries and stuff, death in the form of a brick,” uttered my dear friend. Oh, such a wise and intellectual description.

In the newsroom, a fellow writer was quick to dismiss the attraction of fruitcake, “Fruitcake is horrible, has no culinary value and I’m pretty sure there are no such thing as green cherries in nature.” I got the message: people don’t dig green cherries.

Despite this present day disparagement, in the Middle Ages, society seemed to enjoy fruitcake in masochistic ways. 13th century Britain discovered the use of dried fruits, arriving from Portugal and the east Mediterranean. Rich fruitcakes were then made; inspiring traditional recipes like the Scottish Black Bun that incorporates raisins, currants and almonds baked into a spiced batter. These were then consumed, usually, on Hogmanay, the last day of the year.

By the 16th century, the presence of sugar found its way into fruitcake recipes as a result of an excess of preserved fruits. Cut by the loaf, then pounded and sieved, the sugar was used to intensify the color and flavor of plums, dates and cherries through a soaking process. As these recipes evolved, the process became even more arduous. Eggs were commonly beaten for half an hour, yeast had to be taken from fermenting beer and inconsistent wood-fired ovens were used to bake the cakes.

Embraced by European farmers in the 1700s, it became a symbol of good luck. Baked at the end of the nut harvest, fruitcakes were saved for consumption until the next year, in hopes that the new picking would be just as successful. However, just as they became harvest happy with the hoes, fruitcake was outlawed throughout Continental Europe. Seen as a sign of decadence, the “sinfully rich plum cakes” didn’t re-emerge until the mid 1800s, when the Victorian Era declared them a necessity at teatime.

Over in America, the sugar soaked plague didn’t pop up until the late 1800s. Down in Corsicana, Texas, the Collin Street Bakery opened up in 1896, thanks to German immigrant Gus Weidmann. From there, a tradition was built when guests asked to send the cakes back to Europe as Christmas gifts. Just a decade later, fellow fruitcake fanatic Savino Tos opened Claxton Bakery in Claxton, Georgia. Thus, the saccharine spate had begun, infiltrating its way across the country.

However, sometime between then and now, the fruit cake allure was lost. Amidst the glacé fruit, high fructose corn syrup, preservatives, Yellow 5 and artificial flavors, it’s bewildering to think men like Johnny Carson would deem fruit cake the “worst gift to give,” and that “there’s only one in the world that people pass on to each other.” Author Robert E. Bear, in his short essay, “The Ignoble Fruitcake,” notes how “it has long fooled people with the illusion of being palatable,” and eaten only by “vamfruitcakers.”

Sadly, there seems little hope for fruitcake. The battle to defend its lack of nutritional value, freakishly long shelf life and pariah status within the culinary community is a fruitless one. Unlike its lighter and more edible Italian cousin panettone, or the far less cloying and humble stollen, originally from Germany, fruitcake has merely become fodder for Christmas jokes.

Yet in light of all the criticism, some brave souls have stood up for its survival. The Fruitcake Lady, best known for her segments on the Tonight Show with Jay Leno and as the aunt of Truman Capote, brought attention to the subject in a rather peculiar way. First appearing on the show to advertise her cookbook, Fruitcake: Memories of Truman Capote and Sook, the subject took on an almost novelty appeal. Though she didn’t exactly revitalize a national embracement, fruitcake found its way back into the American eye.

Maybe mankind just can’t get enough of it. If they can’t eat it, they might as well beat it - for all its worth and functionality. It’s been known to work as a wonderful doorstop, a hostile threat during gift giving and substitute for bricklayers. Junie B. Jones, a fictional character by author Barbara Park, uses the “brownish and sickish” thing as a booster seat. In the story, daddy even notes, “If you ever get sick of it, you just put a bow on it. And you give it to someone you hate for Christmas.”

These snide if not jeering remarks, are they waggish little quips? Maybe a closeted denial of allure? It seems that no matter how much we hate it, we love it. Unlike the erratic hype and trends of New York’s restaurant culture, fruitcake remains a stronghold of tradition. Not because its the flavor du jour, but because it’s the exact opposite of that. It’s a staple of history, an inspiration for celebration and the reason our country actually hosts an annual Great Fruitcake Toss.

If we forgot about it, we’d have nothing to poke fun at. Like a dying species in need of safekeeping, the fruitcake is our Dodo bird of the culinary world. It’s rather useless, kind of ugly but oh so amusing. Without fruitcake in our lives, what else would you send to your worst relatives?


Dare to Keep the Tradition Alive?
Collin Street Bakery
DeLuxe Fruit Cake, $21.85
www.collinstreet.com

Claxton Bakery
2lb Claxton Fruit Cake, $17.45
www.claxtonfruitcake.com

13th Annual Great Fruitcake Toss
January 5, 2008 – Manitou Springs, Colorado
www.manitousprings.org